Seek out the stridently contemporary Reina Sofia Museum for Picasso’s Guernica, but stay for the Gris, the Dali, and the Miro. Sleek, this intimate museum near the Prado is the perfect counterbalance to so much Velazquez and Goya. See how Spain evolved to abstract metaphor as you gaze at the gory grimness of Picasso’s masterpieces. Then, wander the halls for some very controversial Cubism. The best: Dali’s Cubist Self Portrait, circa 1923.
Calle de Santa Isabel, 52